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Climbing Towards Tibet

Plan 9...a form of punishment
Chabuk !

The snow squeaks coldly beneath our feet and the air is bitterly fresh. As if your senses aren't already on full overload...the sun starts to rise and blankets the north face of Kangchenjuna in majestic colors. The glaciers moan below us, reminding us "This is the Himalayas!"

The far-eastern region of Nepal offers some of the best high altitude trekking and exploring in Nepal. Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain on the planet, seen from the north base camp, is unforgettable, as is the north face of Jannu, which is a worthy destination itself.

To view the area map, click here.

This trip will allow the trekker to explore up the Lhonak Glacier towards Tibet, following an elusive Snow Leopard and trading route trail. The Climbing Expedition will be attemping Chabuk, 6,960 meters.

Chabuk and Chabuk La

Trip Options and Dates
This trip offers very flexible itineraries. You may trek in, take in all the scenery up to Lhonak Valley and then head back to Kathmandu, or follow the climbing team to base camp, and then head back to Kathmandu. If you are not interested in any climbs but want to join in on the valley explorations, no problem.

Dates: The entire exploration trip will be from mid-October 2009 until December 2009. The minimum trip, to Lhonak and back will be 21 Days. The expedition will be 51 days.

Team & Crew
The logistics for this trip will be handled by Project Himalaya .

Fitness
This is a moderately demanding trek and so you should be reasonably fit, or know that you can get fit quickly. It isn't possible nor necessary to get truly trekking fit before the trek. We trek a daily itinerary that suits loaded porters, who, with 30kg loads cover more distance that you might think. Over the course of the first week you'll be amazed at how your fitness improves.

Trekking experience
No experience is necessary other than being able to hike, however you must be familiar with alpine environments and must understand the risks that camping and trekking above the snowline pose. Previous Nepal or Pakistan trekking experience, or long route hiking experience is desirable. If you have any doubts, please discuss with us.

Our Itinerary

We have designed the best itinerary that will fit into a 4 week holiday from home, and still enable the attempt to climb a 6000m mountain. Being way out in east Nepal, we have chosen to fly there and back rather than add two days bus journey and three days walk to get to the airport. This distance from Kathmandu, which adds to logistics and the fact that Suketar airport is still five days walk from the heart of the mountains, unlike the Everest region's Lukla which is one and half, mean that the Kanchenjunga region is still mercifully lightly trekked. So while Everest is packed - 20 to 40 people a day climbing Island Peak and 20 to 30 on Mera Peak, and Annapurna's Jomsom trail groans under the weight of trekkers, we will only meet a smattering of groups along the way, if any.

Early arrival

Great! We will meet you at the airport, arrange some cheap accommodations and show you around.

Day 1 arrive Kathmandu
You will be met at the airport. Look out for the Explore Himalaya sign or ask around there for our representative. If, for some strange reason, our staff aren't there, take a taxi to Hotel Dynasty and reception will pay for the taxi. Normally we introduce you to Thamel, the main tourist region. Over dinner we check your insurance details and fill out trekking permit forms (2 passport photos needed, cheap and readily available in Kathmandu).

Day 2 free day in Kathmandu
We explore the Kathmandu valley by taking a guided look around Swayambhunath, the monkey temple, with its commanding views of Kathmandu, huge stupas and synthesis of religions. We also visit the Hindu Pashupatinath on the banks of the holy Bagmati river with its saddhus and temple complex, and the huge stupa at Boudhanath which is surrounded by a lively Tibetan community with traditional gompas and monasteries. In the late afternoon we can sort out any equipment that you need to rent.

Day 3 Fly Kathmandu to Biratnagar
We take an afternoon flight to Biratnagar, the eastern regional capital. The domestic flight is by propeller-powered planes, sometimes by an old Avro, sometimes a Twin Otter. Arriving in Biratnagar, we step back a few more decades. We overnight here in a simple hotel, giving us the chance to discover there isn't much to the town.

Day 4 Fly to Suketar (Taplejung) then trek to Jogidanda 2059m
The half hour flight by the 16 seat twin-engined Twin Otter to Suketar drops us in the heart of the middle hills. The porters and crew, who walked in,  will be waiting for our arrival. After landing we take an early lunch, while the crew sort the newly arrived gear.

Typical Porter load
This a typical Porter's load.
All loads are carried in the basket on his back and has a strap that goes around his forehead.

In the afternoon we blow out the cobwebs with a good 3 to 4 hours walking down through terraced fields and small villages to camp in a school yard at Jogidanda. (Note that this is a fine weather flight only and infrequently there are delays. All flying is visual, and there are mountains in those clouds! An alternative is to bus up a new but very rough road to Taplejung).

Day 5 trek through small villages to Chirwa 1800m
Continuing along the trail we descend to Chhiruwa (Chirwa). Chhiruwa is a village set among huge boulders where the majority of the houses are made from bamboo. We will spend the night in a grazing field.

Camp with mountains all around us...

Day 6 trek to Sekathum 1650m
The descent we have made brings us along side of the Tamur Nadi (river) at 1360m. Here we meet the more usual trekking trail. In the low country it is hot and perhaps we can find a swimming hole. In the shaded forest it is pleasant, the ideal conditions for the spice cardamom, or as the locals call it, olanchi (elachi, elanchi). Used in Indian cuisine, especially for chicken tikka masalas and to give Kashmiri tea its distinctive flavour, it is grown everywhere here as a cash crop. Soon we cross over the Simbuwa Khola river by a suspension bridge which is used by more than just people! The Simbuwa Khola originates from Kanchenjunga's south side, and then only 3/4 of an hour later, we cross the Ghunsa Khola river originating from Kanchenjunga's north side. Quite a fluke of nature that they meet so closely. Here at the confluence of the Ghunsa Khola and the Tamur, we camp by a couple of small teahouses. The women here dress in typical tibetan/sherpa fashion with a grey Anki (front-wrap dress) and aprons front and back tied with a single silver clasp, a sign of marriage. The rear scarf is to keep the kidneys warm. The main sherpa village of Sekathum is 200m, or a good half hour walk above.

Day 7 trek to Amjilosa (Amjilosa) 2460m
The Ghunsa Khola valley is deep and steep-sided and the old trail up the valley had a bit of a reputation, with many steep climbs and descents. The new trail deserves one. Despite local assurances that it is flat, it is anything but, but it is an improvement as it crosses the khola many times rather than climbing unnecessarily. Our goal for today, the 3 house hamlet of Amjilosa is still where it was, high on the grassy hillside, so we end with a stiff climb. The good news is that the big mountains that we are headed for, now appear to be within reach of us.

Day 8 trek to Gyabla (Kyapra) 2800m
You will be pleased to know that most of yesterday's ascent isn't wasted. After traversing through mixed Himalayan Oak, Rhododendron and bamboo forest we meet the valley base, which has risen steeply. We pass more camping places while climbing on a pleasant trail and eventually come to Gyabla, a sparse sherpa settlement.

Day 9 trek to Ghunsa 3400m
The climb continues steadily, but relatively gently to the village of Phale, where we have lunch. Phale is in two parts, the traditional winter village for the people of Ghunsa, and a tibetan village of refugees displaced by China's invasion of Tibet. We relax and enjoy Phale before setting off for the short hours walk to Ghunsa. The trail is through beautiful, peaceful forest, mainly juniper with some hemlock and several different types of rhododendrons. It continues to follow the river. Ghunsa is a picturesque Tibetan village. Prayer flags flutter from the wooden houses and there are two gompas. One of the local specialities is 'tongba', a curious alcoholic drink. A jug or large bamboo cup is filled with fermented millet seed and boiling water poured over. The flavour and alcohol seep though while you sip it with a special straw.

Drinking Tongba
Drinking tongba in a local home.

Day 10 rest day at Ghunsa 3400m
The rest day is not just to recover from hangovers, it is to acclimatise properly and a chance to get some clothes washed. For the more energetic there are two valleys to explore.

Day 11 trek to Khambachen 4100m
The trail gently ascends through beautiful pine and rhododendron forests, passing many mani walls and chortens. There are several tricky sections across conglomerate landslides before we stop for lunch by the river at Rampak Kharka. The trails are also used by other modes of transportation. You never know when you might meet a Yak beyond a corner! Crossing the Ghunsa Khola the trail climbs and traverses with Jannu's astounding north face slowly revealing itself. Nestled in this truly alpine terrain is the small summer settlement of Khambachen. On a small grassy plain with a sparkling stream with mountains all around, it is a beautiful spot. You will always create a crowd in this village. The children are always curious about trekkers. Approx 5 hours trekking.

Day 12 rest day at Khambachen 4100m
Soak up the sun, explore the valleys and revel in the mountains, it is your choice for our acclimatisation day here. Although it is a tough day it is possible to visit Jannu base camp.

Jannu Peak
Jannu, known locally as Kumbhakarna, is a magnificent monster of rock.
The peak reaches 7,710 meters and is known for its high and difficult access.
It is no wonder Kumbhakarna translates into, "The Ruler of the Big Glacier".

Day 13 trek to Lhonak 4760m
Expect to feel the altitude a little today, but luckily the trek up to Lhonak is not too strenuous and the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains provided added incentive for numerous rests. Our lunch stop is Ramtang, from where the incredible fluted summit of Wedge Peak first becomes visible and during the afternoon Nepal Peak, the Twins, Mera and the White Wave all come into view. The campsite at Lhonak is on a windy grassy plain that overlooks the Kanchenjunga Glaciers opposite of the Wedge Peak. The walk should take approx 5 to 6 hours.

To view the area map, click here.

Day 14 rest day at Lhonak 4760m
Another acclimatisation day. There are plenty of options for exploring including a gorge that actually leads to a high sanctuary-type alpine valley. Blue sheep have a high grazing area up there. You might also make an interesting friend!

Day 15 day trek to Pangpema 4760m
A short, occasionally challenging 3-4 hour walk from Lhonak is Pangpema, the north face base camp of Kangchenjunga. Not much of a village, but it makes up for the lack of amenities with awesome views! Now relatively acclimatised, we will head up the valley to camp at Pangpema for a Kangchenjunga sunset and sunrise. The more adventurous may want to continue exploring up the valley for a couple more hours. We hike up at a leisurely pace with plenty of "photo stops", due to the altitude. Across the glacier is the huge and fearsome north face of Kanchenjunga, an astounding high altitude panorama as good as it gets.

Kangchenjunga
The mountains do not get any better than this!
Kangchenjunga is the 3rd highest mountain in the world.

Day 16
For the climber in you, we go up to Tengkomo advanced base camp, 5320m. For the trekker in you, we check out the area around Pangpema and then head back down to Lhonak. 4760m

To view a map of the climb, click here.

Day 17 Waking up to?
If you are waking up to the majestic north face of Kangchenjunga, then today we summit Tengkomo 6215m. We take pictures, go down and break camp, then head down to Lhonak.

If you are waking up to the crunching and creaky sounds of the Kangchenjunga Glacier, then you will be having breakfast in Lhonak. After breakfast, it is a free day to go exploring or just lie around in the sun. Tomorrow, a few of the group will be heading back to Kathmandu and the rest of us will head up the Lhonak glacier to explore the Tibetan frontier.

Day 18 - 39 Continue to explore up Lhonak Glacier 5200m
We travel up the glacier seeing ice caves and looking for the Snow Leopard. There are many options for us to do. The route over to Tibet looks very interesting. Before 1960, this part of the glacier was used for trade between Tibet and Nepal. We will also find a few of the peaks look worth climbing. There is even a high pass that would allow us to do a circle route. Could be we do the first complete circle route of Kangchenjunga? Anything is possible.

Day 40 trek to Ghunsa
What was a long walk up requiring two days and many rests becomes a pleasant stroll now that we are used to the altitude.

Day 41 trek to Amjilosa 2460m or a forest camp nearby
With the porters lightly loaded and everyone is fit, we return to Suketar at a faster pace. We walk more steadily but the days aren't much longer since descending is much less effort than ascending.

Day 42 trek to Chhiruwa (Chirwa) 1200m
Down, down and down! After being in the alpine regions for so long it amazing how much you appreciate trees. From Tapethok we take the standard trail down the valley beside the Tamur.

Day 43 trek to Sisne Khola 1400m
Leaving Chhiruwa we head down the Linkhim trail to Suketar, re-tracing our route.

Day 44 trek to Suketar 2420m
Traversing in an out of minor valleys, we pass thru a succession of picturesque villages on our way to Suketar.

Day 45 fly to Biratnagar then Kathmandu
Royal Nepal's morning Twin Otter flight returns us to Biratnagar where we have an afternoon flight to Kathmandu. Again, infrequently flights are delayed.

Day 46 Kathmandu
A free day for shopping and in case any flights are delayed.

Day 47 depart
We hope (we know!) you had a fantastic trek!

Cost
For the price and trip dates please email us at:
exploringearth@exploringearth.com

The cost includes all airport transfers in Kathmandu, sightseeing tour of Kathmandu, all guiding and portering, all accommodation and meals while trekking, all fixed ropes, climbing ropes and associated protection needed for climbing (if or as required), all group transportation including the return Taplejung flight and all local taxes, climbing permit fees, trekking permit fees and entrance fees.

Not included: international airfares (around US$1400 from the US, £600 from the UK, around NZD3000 from NZ), meals in Kathmandu, equipment rental, alcohol, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature.
Climbing equipment not included: plastic boots, crampons, ice axe, harness and locking carabiner, although we have limited gear available.

Minimum numbers
There is no minimum number of clients for the 2001: A Space Oddesey, Kanchenjunga!, so it will run regardless of how many people book. However if there are three or less team members there is a $150 surcharge.

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