Team Chabuk
Recon Exploration - 2008
My climbing partner, Bob Vandeventer, and I landed in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, one day apart. After getting our affairs in order with Project Himalaya and Explore Himalaya (our outfitters), we departed by air to Suektar, an airstrip on the upper slope of a hill. Our crew had been here for five days sorting through all the gear and food we would need for the next thirty-five days. Unlike the Everest region, most maps of this area are incomplete and have not only village names wrong, but also located on the wrong hill. Basically we will drop down from Suektar to the Tamur River and follow it upstream to Yangma Kohla (river) and keep following upstream to where the river turns into a glacier. We will remain above 10,000 feet in elevation for thirty-one days.
During the easy hike downhill, the green millet fields become more numerous. The yellow fields are rice which will soon be harvested. Soon the trail leads down into a dense forest. Moss, bamboo and fern grow along the path. Bridges cross the numerous creeks that flow down in narrow and steep green valleys. Some of the bridges are rather old, the foundation is usually fine but the wooden planks are either missing or squeaking; swinging is included. Where the forest has been cleared a little, people set up cardamom plantations: the dark green leaves stand out in the shade of the forest. In the distance the dry cornfields have ended and endless rice terraces cover the hills. They look like golden steps that climb up from far down and end just below the ridges. The blue sky contrasts nicely with the yellow color, and white puffy clouds add to the whole scenery.
We pass many homes along the way, each having a great view down the valley. Every home is self-sufficient. Flowers and vegetable gardens make the locations even nicer. In separate open air stables are pigs; chickens run around the house. Goats and cows roam around as well. Kids or women watch the valuable livestock. The hillsides get steeper and only burned yellow ferns manage to cling to the dark rock. The terrain gets rougher and the river is constant white water. A few more climbs and descents, and then the trail reaches the river. Huge black boulders are strewn over the wide valley.
